This trip was in October of
1999.
For photos of this trip head here.
The group met in a
very unexpected hot and muggy Kathmandu and spent a couple of days there
to sort out details for the trip and do some sightseeing.
The first trek
was around the Annapurna Region. We drove by bus for 8 hours to the
city of Pokhara and commenced the trek from there. We walked
up the Seti River valley to the villages of Lhachok and Ghachok.
Then up through the hills covered in rainforest and leeches. Although
the was little rain, the afternoons bought clouds and fog in to hide the
views which we were assured, were magnificent. Our highest
point on this trek was 2650 metres. We then moved onto Parje,
near to the village of Siklis.
Then it was
all downhill (4637 steps!) to the Mardi River valley. From our final campsite
high on ridge at Thokolate, there were to be spectacular views of the Annapurna
Range. Unfortunately there was too much fog and hardly any mountains
were seen at all. Next we had several "wet" days of rafting in front
of us. The rain had other ideas and while we did get wet, not much
of it was on the Trisuli river where it should have been!
We then moved to Chitwan
National Park for some welcome relief from sleeping in tents. Real
beds and showers were much appreciated. Washing off the sticky sand
which appeared in all sorts of places become the number one priority.
After travelling back
to Kathmandu by bus, some prepared for the trip home while others gathered
their strength for the trip to Everest.
A cold and wet morning
greeted us as we headed for the airport for the flight to Lukla.
The plane ride followed the valleys towards Lukla and the mountains could
be seen out of the left hand side of the plane. The landing at Lukla
has to be experienced to be believed. The runway appeared on the
side of a hill as the clouds broke. Looking more like a track in
the middle of the village the runway slopes upwards. You don't really "land"
as much as stop flying. Down safely we collected our gear and started
the pilgrimage up the Khumbu Valley towards Namche Bazaar and Everest.
The walking was slow and easy going giving us time to acclimatize to the
slowly increasing altitude. For the first couple of days the
track is fairly level, and the walking is easy. Its not until you
reach the suspension bridge that the climb to Namche Bazaar starts.
Its a 600 metre climb up switchbacks which takes between 1 and 2 hours.
About a third of the way up on the end of one of the switchbacks you can
peer between the conifers and get some glimpses of Everest.
We had a perfect day and had our first real look at the mountain under
blue skies. Later we met some trekkers on their way to Base Camp
who had been in the area for 5 days and had not seen the mountains at all.
As you approach Namche you don't see it until you round the last corner
and then it spreads out before you. It lies in a big bowl shaped
valley. From the shape of it it would appear that the snow should
sweep it away in an avalanche but it obviously does not happen. We
had a rest and acclimatization day in Namche before we continued further
up the valley. A day walk on the trail out towards Thame was organized.
The trial itself is fairly flat and has spectacular views of the surrounding
mountains. The weather was warm and sunny and as we walked the scenery
became more and more spectacular.
In the afternoon Martin
and I decided to walk up the steep hill behind Namche to the airstrip at
Synboche. This airstrip is no longer used but it is still a
strange sight when you crest the hill. From there we continued along
the path towards the Everest View Hotel. The track winds along the
ridge above the trail to Tengboche and affords wonderful views of the valley.
The hotel itself has only recently re-opened. In the past tourists
(mainly Japanese) were flown in from Kathmandu to airstrip at Synboche.
Due to the thinner atmosphere they were placed on oxygen and carried to
the hotel on yaks. The hotel has oxygen in the rooms so the visitors
can sleep soundly. After hopefully catching a glimpse of the mountain
they are ferried back down to the airstrip and flown back to civilization.
Martin and I snuck
in a quite beer here as we had not suffered from any symptoms of altitude
sickness.
The walk back down
the hill to Namche was almost worse than the trip up as our knees
took a pounding. By now it was late in the day and the temperature
was dropping quickly.
The nights in Namche
were fairly cold and everyone sat around the pot-belly stove trying to
keep warm.
There is not a lot
to do here at night as we were off the alcohol because it can increase
the susceptibility to altitude sickness.
We were woken early
next morning (5:00am!) for a walk up to the National Park outpost to watch
the sunrise. After the short but steep walk up to the ridge we stood
around in the cold waiting for the sun to make its appearance. The
sun did not disappoint us and as it rose it revealed the snow-covered mountains.
The further it rose the more spectacular the views became.
Although the sun was
up it took a long while for the temperature to meet it. Later
on that day it time to move up the valley to Tengboche. The walk
along the side of the mountain was easy to start with. It was mainly
flat and had amazing views down the valley to the Dudh Kosi river.
After about 2 hours walking and a steep (down) hill we arrived for lunch
at Phunki Tenga. here the often photographed bridge traverses the
river and leads to the start of the climb up to Tengboche. This is
a "good" hill. Quite steep with no level parts until you reach the
top of the ridge and the monastery. although it is steep it only
takes between 1 and 2.5 hours for most people to reach the top. The altitude
here is 3867m. Some people felt the effects of the altitude while others
had no problems. It was noticeably colder here with the daytime temp
around 12deg C. As we warmed up at the lodge some of the others trekkers
on their way to base camp set off up the hill behind the lodge to a lookout
at 4500m. they returned after half an hour or so as it had begun
to snow lightly and was getting colder still. After dinner that night,
the usual games of cards and catching up of diaries entertained all.
The night was very
cold and after waking several times we went in search of extra blankets.
Fortunately we were staying in the store-room so we found them easily.
The 2 synthetic bags we were given for the trip were not warm enough and
I would recommend that anyone who has a down bag rated for these temperatures
should take it!
Rob, Martin, Nigel
and myself were woken at 5 the next morning. Our objective was the
lookout that the others had tried the night before. With our guide
Kumar we set of into the bitterly cold but clear morning. It was
just getting light as we reached the lookout.
The walk up took around half an hour. As we climbed we warmed up
quickly but when we stopped to catch our breath the cold quickly snuck
in and forced us to move on. The temperature at 4500 meters that
morning -6deg C. As the photos show it was a clear morning for a
while. We were lucky enough to see a big avalanche falling off Thamseku.
We all thought it was really quiet until the sound reached us some moments
later. Later we found that the early risers at the lodge had heard
it but had not been able to see far enough up the valley to witness the
size of the fall. After taking the traditional photos we started
the walk back towards Namche. Going down the steep hill towards the
river was almost worse than than the slog up. Everyone's knees took
a pounding as we headed down. Once at the bottom there was a short
but steep section to get us back up the other side. From there we
went a different route back to Namche. We veered left over the back
towards the village of Kumdung. This route arrives at the back of
the Everest Hotel. Once over the top we headed down to the airstrip and
then along the top of the hill for a spectacular view of Namche from above.
The next saw us heading back towards Lukla. The weather took a turn
for the worse and light rain began to fall as we started off. The
walk out is much quicker as we do not have to worry about the altitude.
After to days walk we arrived back at a wet Lukla. We woke early
the next morning and climbed aboard the Twin Otter puddle-jumper and returned
to to the smog of Kathmandu.
In the month that
we had been in Nepal the temperature had fallen markedly. When we
arrived it was hot and humid but now a month later, it was much cooler
and rained more frequently.
After two rest days
we flew out for home.